Iron Curtains for Glass Ticket Windows?

In late December last year, we went to Big Cinemas in Pondicherry to watch 'Dhoom 3'. I looked hard for the ticket window (the regular glass ticket window one normally sees at cinemas), but none was to be found except for a red iron curtain of a window where people had already queued up. It soon became apparent that these guys were successfully purchasing tickets from behind that iron curtain!

A closer look revealed that this was indeed the functional Ticket Window. There was just a circular opening wired in mesh from which patrons could communicate with the counter guy. Unbelievable! I should have known that security was the most obvious reason but still asked a few people around what this was all about. They seemed mildly amused at my ignorance and explained that the cinemas in Pondy can't afford glass ticket windows because fans smash them in a frenzy if the shows are sold out. In order to protect property as well as the ticket counter guys from the brunt of this cinematic rage, solid iron came to replace clear glass.

My friend Bagalavan Perier who worked on the sets of 'Life of Pi' with Ang Lee gave me useful insights into the collective consciousness of Tamil audiences and their passion for cinema. About the ticket window, he said 'Oh, this exists not just in Pondy but all over Tamil Nadu and most of the South Indian theaters except for those in malls. Just go watch a Tamil film especially one starring Rajni, Kamal, Vijay or Ajit. First day, first show -- you won't be able to hear the dialog as people scream throughout. Some times fans will tear apart the screen if the operator won't play the song they like again.'

He continued, 'Over here fans are crazy that's why chief ministers are always related with cinema. MGR was a Tamil hero, Jayalalitha (current chief minister) was a heroine. Karunanidhi was a script writer who holds the name for changing the trend of Tamil cinema. People have been requesting Rajnikant (actor) to enter politics since 1980. Just because of his support, Karunanidhi became the Chief Minister in 1996. When Kamal Haasan's controversial film 'Vishwaroopam' was banned in Tamil Nadu, we willingly went to the neighboring states of Kerala and Andhra Pradesh to watch the movie!'

Vishwaroopam Poster

What about women in southern cinema?

Shobana

I asked if Shobana, an acclaimed actress and danseuse who runs a Bharatnatyam school in Chennai would enter politics. Baglu replied, 'No, she won't because she is from Kerala. Kerala people are clever, they treat actors as actors unless he or she is worth their support. In Tamil Nadu it is different. You have male fans performing abhisegam (worship) to posters of film stars by squirting milk on them, or beer. In Pondicherry, they even smash the beer bottles after!'

Fans Pour Milk on a Kamal Hassan Poster

Do Tamil actresses enjoy this love too?

Apparently yes! Some fans constructed a temple for Kushboo and Namitha. On reading this article, this is what Namitha had to say about her temple, 'I am both thrilled and scared because I find a temple built in honour of a living person - especially me - a little difficult to come to terms with.'

Just before my jaw couldn't drop further, Bagalavan trailed off, 'In the South of India, not just the actors but even directors, music directors and cinematographers are worshiped. We have fan clubs for technicians too. Antony and Lenin in editing, Ilayaraja in music, Sandosh Sivan in cinematography, Rasul in audio editing ....'

------------------------------------

Thanks to Bagalavan.
Shobana's pic courtesy her official site.

Watching Dhoom 3 in Tamil (in Pondicherry)

Dhoom 3 Poster in Pondicherry

Warning: Small Spoiler Alert

Deep announced he was going to watch Dhoom 3 on Christmas night.
In Hindi.
In Pondicherry.
Yep! In a city, where very few locals understand Hindi.

The next day he affirmed that the cinema hall was houseful and packed with North Indians who apparently have a sizable presence in Pondy which is why slots are reserved for certain Hindi films.

On his recommendation, I set out to catch the film only to find that the matinee show was dubbed in Tamil which I don't understand. I watched as locals thronged the ticket counter, asking for tickets to 'Tttoom 3'.
How would they react to the visuals and sensibilities of a Bollywood production?

My friend Bagalavan, an industry insider explained earlier, 'Tamil audiences come for the brand name 'Dhoom' and not necessarily for the power cast. Chennai Express released here in Hindi and was not dubbed in Tamil. Even My Name is Khan, Ek Tha Tiger and Three Idiots were released in Hindi but Tamil movie goers still went to watch them either for time pass or to learn Hindi. Me and my friends go to watch the differences in cinematic techniques.'

So anyway, Dhoom 3 started.

I remembered Baglu's words, 'In Tamil films, you won't be able to hear the dialogues spoken when the actor makes his first appearance on screen.'

Would hell break lose when Aamir came on?

His introductory scene pretty predictable --  direct transition from child (awakening from a nightmare) to  adult. Muscles rippled in the dead blue of the night. But my co-onlookers were stone faced..

Next was Abhishek Bachchan's theatrical entry in a ricshaw, literally exploding onto the screen through a pile of bricks.

Again, a dull silence..

Maybe a small moan for funny man Uday Chopra?
Nada encore!

Wait! All's not lost! Love was the universal binder of things.. So would the kiss between Aamir and Katrina provoke a reaction? Any reaction? A flying chappal, gasps of 'Chhhooo'?
Nope!

But this is not to say that they were totally unmoved by the film.

There was this one (and only) time when two-fingered whistles pierced the air -- yep, you guessed right.
This was when Samar (Aamir) accepted the inspector's (Abhishek) handshake with a goofy shyness, only to suddenly morph into the creepy twin Sahil (also Aamir in a double role).

Pure evil that deserves applause!

Because this is where you come to realize time and again why Aamir is the undisputed  King of the Khans. While other actors slip into their character's skins --- Aamir drags you down with him into the spine-chilling recesses of his dark grey personnages!

Analysts say that Dhoom 3 is having a good run down south.

It will take a while for Tamil audiences to warm up to the Badshaahs of Bollywood but when that happens, hopefully the bridge between North and South India would have shrunk.

If there's any one who can achieve this gargantuan task, it's Aamir!

Note: Reactions could have differed if I watched the film on a weekend night to a packed house!

Capturing Pondicherry From a Boat

The Pondicherry Skyline

After you have read this blog, and if you are in Pondicherry, do yourself a favor and head down to the Pondicherry Museum  near Bharti Park, for a rare glimpse of a magnificent painting just in front of the ticket desk. You do not even have to enter the museum. Painted several centuries ago, this work of art reflects the city's skyline as seen from the sea. This is what provoked me to do the same. At the end of the blog is a video of all the footage we managed.

Before you set about on a similar expedition on a fishing boat, know that:

1. Even on a sunny day, the sea is deceptively and extremely turbulent when you are in a small wooden boat. Do not consume a heavy meal before the trip. Avoid soft drinks and drink only water. Suck on a sour lime when you start to feel sick. Taking an Avomine tablet for motion sickness might not work especially if it knocks you out.

2. The ocean spray will get into your camera lens so make sure you have a filter on. Salt water and sand can damage lenses beyond repair; often the damage is not visible to the naked eye. A plastic cover wrapped around the camera body is a good idea.

Unavoidable Spray

3. Try sitting in the center of the boat for steady pics. Remember that the boat rocks even when the anchor is let down. Chances are you will have crooked horizons on most of your pics.

Example of a Crooked Horizon 

4. Sit at the tip of the boat only if you are absolutely certain of your balance and a good swimmer! At times, you feel like a 50 foot wave is steadily building up with the sole aim of gobbling you up. Keep calm and say 'Seriously, what is this?'

5. Try and set out early in the morning for soft light. Even if I would have preferred twilight or night shots of the city from the sea, I wasn't sure if this was a great idea, with a wooden boat.

6.Set you camera on Burst Mode. This way, even if your head, body and/or boat is tilted at 45 degrees, you will manage to sneak in a few shots with perfect horizons from time to time.

7. Stand only if the anchor is dropped and if you are in the center of the boat. Although the shots could be more interesting, never ignore your boatman's warnings. When he asks you to sit, you do exactly that with no questions asked!

Your Boss for the Day

8. Wait until the wave breaks for a more dramatic picture, full of movement and life.

The Wave has Broken

9. From the sea, the land takes on a life of its own. Monsieur Dupleix's curly locks appear to fly in the sea breeze, and everything is somewhat surreal, animated and exaggerated. Or maybe it's just me.

10. And finally, while embarking and disembarking the boat, watch your balance and take care not to step onto the 'shore' which is a hotbed of glass splinters, preservatifs and other yucky stuff you don't want getting your feet into.

Enjoy the moment! And don't forget the painting in the museum! Until then. here is a video of Pondicherry's  historic skyline -- replete with piers, statues, lighthouses and Love.

Mission Street's Twillight Wonder - IC Cathedral

At the risk of sounding trivial, it must be said that Pondy has 3 main 'touristy' churches:

-Sacred Heart
-Pink Church (Notre Dame des Anges)
-IC Cathedral Mission Street. (Immaculate Conception)

The last loses out to the other two in terms of fans, because everybody's in love with the Gothic spires of Sacred Heart Church (which has Basilica status by the way) ..  Pink Church is a hot favorite owing to it's hot pink color, beach side location and nice stained glass ..

But to me and my own, Mission Street's I.C church towers above the others ..And this can't be attributed to any stunning architectural elements or color schemes or romantic historical stories..None of that

Maybe it's the presence of the mysterious Falling Angel

These are pics from July 23rd after the sunset (I never saw).





Small Video 

 

With Golden Jesus in the Foreground

I can see Rafael (Angel)  --- inside the Cupola


 

Close View



Mission Street Overviews and the Sky



The Lifesize Pieta to the Right of the Church

The Grotto of the Faithful

 

Blue White . and Gold .

 

Closeup of the Face of Mary on the Main Building

Entrance from Mission Street

This is It ..

Alone at the Top

 

With Pondy Moonrise -- Who Needs Sunsets?

for the Moony Mermaid

There are 2 things:

Pondy can be very disorienting for the West Coast person habituated to watching the sun fall into the sea every evening. Remember, when  "The sun sets in the West.", it also unleashes a riot of colors in the Western Skies.. Red, orange, blue, purple, silver, golden ..and finally culminating in a suggestive black.

This is why evenings on Pondy's promenade with blue grey skies feel ---  incomplete?

On the other hand, most of my Pondy Cherrians cannot imagine a sun sinking into water. .. It's much too Apocalyptic, this proposition

And so the conversations followed:

Locals:  "Hello!! Hello!  If you want to watch orange and red skies every evening, go sit on a terrace and look towards Mission Street/Anna Salai/M.G Road side"

Me: "But it's not the same as the Sun setting in the sea!"

Them : "Well, but we have the Moon rising from the sea. And colors more profound than orange and pink. Give it a chance"

They are right..

That Pondy is a nice place to be on full moon nights. Doesn't matter if the moon is waxing or waning. Try coming this time around and hope there is not too much cloud cover. Stay at a guesthouse facing the ocean ..
Only the moon rising over Ganga in Varanasi comes close.

Here are pics from July 24th 2013, possibly 9 pm.

Standing on the terrace at Vaithikuppam, the fisherman houses below.

Vaithikuppam Fishing Village 

Where's the Mermaid

The Tormented Skies

The specks of light in the ocean are a few brave boats drifting like flotsam

You don't see the Moon . But you know she is there, working up a silver froth with the        Waves

Somewhere along, I miss a certain dog 

.. his black fur.. brown eyes and honest heart beat..  The moon gets increasingly aggrieved, colors are changing too.. Like in  a Sci-Fi  film..

So Goodnight Struppich

Goodnight Scrambled Moon ..

Ganesh Cafe - a Bite of North India in Pondy

Signboarded 'Ganesh Snacks Center' -- but just 'Ganesh' to Pondy's insiders, it's one of the few places in India (no exaggeration) where the great North - South Indian divide disappears into Nothingness. Because everyone's having a good time here, whether workers from the nearby Secretariat Building on their break, Ashram students, local families with their kids or homesick North Indians who need a chanage from idli, dosa, vada, upma and pongal.

GULAB JAMUN or KLAAP CHAAM (acc. to Gégé)

Where is Ganesh?

Just a minute walk from the Bharti Park on Rue Campagne and on the same street as Romain Rolland Library, you can't miss the bright pink signboard that reads 'GANESH'.

Open hours

Monday to Saturday - 8:30 am - 1:30 pm and 3pm - 8:30 pm.

What can you eat here?

The glass box by the pay-counter contains samosas, boondi laddoos, gulab jamuns, home made chocolates in silver foil, laung, lathika and gajja (kinds of Indian sweets) Unsure if coffee is served here but tea (chai) definitely is. Paneer Paratha with curd is too much (A+ for this) as is Alu Paratha. Also possible to ask for bread cutlet, pakoda, chaas (buttermilk), lassi and cold coffee..

ALU PARATHA - 2ND PRIZE WINNER 

BOONDI LADDOO

 

Many Klaap Chaams

Painting of A Boy and Grapes

 

Full rice meals are not served at the cafe but they do take catering orders. A thali (full meal) gets you 2 sabzis (vegetable dish), chawal (rice), roti, dahi raita (curd salad) and a sweet (hopefully gulab jamun!). They also take orders for pav bhaaji, fried rice, chole bhatura and pulav. Has to be a minimum group of 15 but best to confirm.

Unpretentious and so very cheap, you could go in with 20 Rs in your pocket and it's ok. The cooks get the flavors right from the word Go. Most popular is the samosa (I've heard locals pronouce it as saam-saa but I guess a saam-sa is still a saam-sa by any other name)

Mona Lisa - Not a Misfit.. Not at All

Gold Fish



Lord Ganesh

Whimsical Ganesh

When the neon tubelights do not work, they switch on the romantic overhead dark pink lanterns. On one walls hangs a morose Mona Lisa, on the other are the iconic images of Shri Aurobindo and The Mother. And the third wall has another Western style painting of a young guy. Along 2 corners are statues of Lord Ganesha. And then.. then to complete the funky ambiance is a glassy green  fish tank with plenty of gold fish and other types running along.. Don't be surprised to see infants walk up to the counter, ask for a laddoo and proceed into the staff back room/kitchen to watch cartoons on their Tv.



Young Diner

RASGULLA

HAPPY SERVER

The MYSTERY OF GANESH

The flavors here so similar to those of North India. All of the snacks are spicy but never oily or overbearing. The fillings are flavorful as is the sweet red sauce. Alu paratha is miles apart from the 'Barotta ()' or 'Parotta ()' you get elsewhere in Pondy. It was a big mystery first eating at this Ganesh.

And then, I learnt that all of the young guys (Kailash, Ajay and Sonu) who work here are from Jharkhand. They've all learnt Tamil whilst on the job and now speak it fluently. Even Western tourists have no problems conveying their orders and settling bills.

Manager Prabhu is proud of his boys. He says, 'I've brought them all from our village in Jharkhand. They did not attend lessons in Tamil but now speak it fluently with customers. They speak English and Hindi too. We have only 5 tables but people are ok with sharing tables and so often they make new friendships here. We don't pressurize people to eat and leave quickly because this place is like a 2nd home to many. Smoking is not allowed. Our clientele is mixed and very often women can come in and alone and eat without being disturbed or harassed. People come as far as JIPMER and Pondicherry University. If food remains at the end of the day, we distribute it at the temple. Wastage is not good, you know"

Fully in agreement with all points.

STAFF AT WORK

And Madhavan

Mr. Madhavan who comes in the evenings to look after the cafe and entertains all of us with his good humor. With stories of Nigeria where girls in the marketplace came to touch his long hair when he was younger. My friend Prince loves Mr. Madhavan who is like his own Papa. They are so alike in many ways.

MR. MADHAVAN TELLS A FANTASTIC STORY TO A PRINCE

FULL OF JOY - MR. MADHAVAN

Ganesh is a way of life to its regulars. But There's always space for more. And then there is Monalisa in waiting too..

LEONARDO DA VINCI WOULD BE PROUD